The “Gloria Dei” was at the beginning

20 years ago this year, the first Eichenstein wine went on sale. An interview with Josef "Sepp" Waldner.

Josef "Sepp" Waldner is a hotelier and restaurateur (Romantik-Hotel & Restaurant Oberwirt in Marling), a passionate fruit farmer, and a horse breeder. He is also a passionate winemaker. This year, his Eichenstein winery is celebrating a small anniversary. The first Eichenstein wine, the white wine cuvée "Gloria Dei," went on sale 20 years ago.

Sepp Waldner in the Eichenstein Barrique Cellar 2014

Sepp, when did you come up with the idea of ​​starting your own winery?

In 1993, I was able to purchase an old farm in Freiberg/Meran, on the opposite side of the valley from Marling. I wanted to build a breeding station for my Haflinger horses there. But when I first saw this wonderful, sun-drenched spot at an altitude of 550 meters, I was immediately captivated and thought to myself: This is an ideal location for wine. Then everything clicked in my head.

Aerial view of the Eichenstein winery

Your family has been growing and producing wine in Marling for 350 years, especially Pinot Blanc and Vernatsch for the Oberwirt's inn wine.

In Marling, we have almost two hectares of vineyards. With the acquisition of Eichenstein, we were able to gain another four hectares. But it was a long road to becoming a winery. From the demolition of the old buildings to the construction of the new ones, including the wine cellar and all the necessary official permits, it took 21 years. In 2007/2008, we planted the first vineyards at Eichenstein with Chardonnay and Riesling. Then we added Sauvignon Blanc. And new vines followed year after year. The winery began full operation in 2014 with the completion of the Eichenstein construction.

Who supported you in implementing your idea?

I had no idea what a wine cellar should look like or what it entails. But I received excellent advice from, among others, oenologist Hartmann Donà (a long-time oenologist at the Terlan Winery), Werner Knipser from the Palatinate region, and Swiss wine icons Thomas and Martin Donatsch.

Why is the winery called “Eichenstein”?

I named it that because there are so many oak trees and stones there. I'm, so to speak, very rich ( laughs ).

Who produced the first wines?

Hartmann Donà developed the first wines with me. I also rented a wine cellar from him until I completed my own winery. Marius Müller then joined as an assistant, and he later became responsible for Eichenstein from 2015 to 2018. Martin Pollinger has been our oenologist and operations manager since 2018.

Sepp Waldner and oenologist Martin Pollinger

Do you remember what the first glass of your own wine tasted like?

Yes, the first, of course, was the "Gloria Dei," beautifully fruity, mineral, and fresh. It was followed by the "Baccara," a delightful red wine blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful.

"Cantante" - that was the name of the "Gloria Dei" in 2004 and 2005

What do you generally associate with wine?

Wine has been a part of our culture for thousands of years. Wine in moderation is a pleasure, a joy of life, and a quality of life. It also creates bonding moments, bringing people together.

What distinguishes Eichenstein wines?

Our wines are very mineral, and they thrive on a special soil. 80 percent of the vines at Eichenstein grow on porphyry rock. This is especially noticeable in the mineral white wines. But it's also noticeable in the Pinot Noir, our Blauburgunder, which presents itself with a delicate and fruity flavor.

Eichenstein produces nine different, very special and expressive wines – from white to rosé to red. They have special names, such as "Baccara," "Amantus," "Marie Sophie," or "Seppelaia" – a Chardonnay Riserva that represents the magnificent quintessence of the Eichenstein winery. How did you come up with these names?

It has to do with family and my little passions. I'm a rose lover. "Gloria Dei," "Carina," and "Baccara" are well-known rose varieties. "Amantus" and "Athos" are named after two of my Haflinger stallions; other wines like "Knott" and "Stein" are named after their vineyards, and one is named after my granddaughter, "Marie Sophie." And "Seppelaia" was created by my daughters Andrea and Barbara for one of my birthdays.

(Sepp Waldner and Siegfried Zelnhefer in Oberwirt Spring 2025)

Which Eichenstein wine is your favorite?

I find that very difficult. I love them all. Depending on my mood or the dish in question, I'm always happy with the right one.

How would you like to further develop Eichenstein?

Together with Martin Pollinger, we have achieved a very high level of quality in just a few years. I want to maintain and expand this. And I would like to continue to win over our Eichenstein vine owners and all wine lovers, as well as attract new connoisseurs.

Interview: Siegfried Zelnhefer